It has been a long of summer of no surf in Rincon. Plenty of time to plant, build and work. However, that doesn’t leave much time to keep my sanity! Two/Three months without surf makes Stefan a dull boy.
This past hurricane (Hanna) that cruised north of us, then south east to hit us and then back up North sent us some waves…just not in Rincon. I drove up to Isabella and surfed with about 50 of my closest friends (just kidding). It was head high to a couple feet over head, glassy and lined up.
Yesterday, I surfed in Rincon. I don’t have pictures but it was a South swell wrapping around the point and breaking in front of The Tamboo. Glassy lefts breaking into the bay towards Aguadilla. That swell direction is so uncharacteristic of Rincon it is weird to see the waves breaking there. There was a bunch of sand on the bottom where there is normally reef. I broke one leash and busted out the center fin of my fish. Not really a good day for equipment, but perfect for my head.
Glad to see you are finally having fun! Looks like Ike and Josephine will offer up some serious weather and surf as well. Hope you guys stay safe (and dry inside your house)! Here is a cool site I use to track the storms, in addition to the NOAA ones: http://web.tampabay.rr.com/wolfy/ — Fran